monday morning wave…

Dean Brady, Victoria, Australia. Photo: Miagunya

Surfing: physical workout, mental cleanser, spiritual journey, social network, international brother and sisterhood, path to environmental awareness, communion with higher powers, cosmic teacher, anti-authoritarianism, rugged individualism, egocentric folly and … damned fun!
- DC Green (surf journalist, children’s book author, 41 year-old grommet)